Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park protects the Ugandan portion of the Virunga mountains and its three main peaks: Muhavura, Gahinga, and Sabyinyo. Established in 1930 as the Gorilla Game Sanctuary, the national park was gazetted in 1991.

Covering less than 34 km, Mgahinga is the smallest national park in Uganda but it forms part of a cross border system of  contiguous reserves in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, extending over some 430 km of the higher Virunga’s.

Small though it might be, Mgahinga is arguably the most scenic park in Uganda, offering  panoramic views that stretch northwards to Bwindi and a southern skyline dominated by the steep volcanic cones of the Virunga’s, surely one of the most memorable and stirring sights in East Africa.

Mgahinga protects 76 mammal species, including golden monkeys, black and white colobus, mountain gorilla, leopard, elephant, giant forest hog, bush-pig, buffalo, bush buck, and several varieties of small rodents, bats, and small predators.

Amazingly,only 115 bird species have been recorded, possibly a reflection of the park’s small size, but also suggesting that no serious study of its avi-fauna has ever been undertaken. Yet the park is still of great interest to birdwatchers as several species recorded are local forest birds and 12 are considered to endemic to the Albertine Rift region.

Mgahinga is best known to tourists for gorilla trekking. Interestingly, no gorillas live permanently within in the park, but a fair number move freely between Uganda and the neighboring Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda, and one habituated troop frequently spends months at a stretch within Mgahinga.

Unfortunately, late on in 2004, the park’s habituated group was subjected to attacks from a belligerent lone silverback and fled across the border into Rwanda. The silverback has remained on the Ugandan slopes where it frustrates any attempts by the habituated gorillas to return to Mgahinga.

However, in July 2006, they were tracked by Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers along the Uganda-Rwandan border in the watershed between mount Sabyinyo and Mgahinga. They are presently being monitored to see whether trekking for tourism can recommence.

Getting to the park

The Ntebeko entrance gate lies roughly 14 km  from Kisoro along a dirt road. Historically a bit of a lengthy trip, this infamous route has recently been improved and it should now take no more than 30 minutes from Kisoro. A 4×4 vehicle may still be necessary after heavy rain.

To get to Mgahinga from the national park’s office in Kisoro, follow the main road towards the DRC for about 100 m, turn left at the first main junction immediately before the Travelers Rest Inn, then turn right about 100 m further and follow the stone cairns up to Ntebeko.

Inside the park

The park has many activities, including gorilla trekking, mountain hiking, golden monkey visits, nature walks, and the Batwa trail.

Gorilla trekking

Roughly 45 gorillas spend part of the year in Mgahinga, moving to and from the adjoining protected forests in Rwanda and the DRC.

Historically, the habituated  Nyakagezi group lived mostly in Mgahinga but has spent much of its time abroad since 2005. Consequently, gorilla trekking is only possible in Mgahinga National Park since it is not possible to guarantee pre – arranged bookings.

Mountain hikes

A reasonable level of fitness and an early start is required for any mountain hikes, and good boots, rain gear, and warm clothes are recommended. The least demanding mountain hike, the six to seven hour round trip from Ntebeko up Mount Gahinga, offers a good chance of seeing various forest birds in the bamboo zone.

The tougher ascent from Ntebeko to Sabyinyo, which takes at least eight hours there and back, passes through montane forest and moorland, and culminates in three challenging climbs up rock faces using ladders. The most challenging  hike is to the peak of Muhavura, the highest peak.

This starts at a base camp a few kilometres from the entrance gate, and the round trip will take at least nine hours. The open moorland that characterizes Muhavura offers great views in all directions, as well as the opportunity to see Afro alpine endemics such as the beautiful scarlet-tufted malachite sun-bird. A small crater lake at the top of Muhavura is encircled by giant lobelias.

Golden Monkey trekking

The next best thing to seeing the mountain gorilla is the chance to track the golden monkeys, a little known bamboo associated primate listed as endangered by the IUCN.

Endemic to the Albertine Rift, the golden monkey is characterised by a bright orange-gold body, cheeks, and a tail contrasting with its black limbs, crown, and tail end. Until a few years ago, this picturesque primate was common in Rwanda’s Gishwati Forest Reserve, most of which was chopped down by refugees.

Fortunately, the golden monkey is the numerically dominant primate within this restricted range, with a survey estimated population  of between 3000 and 4000 in Mgahinga National Park. Golden monkey trekking can be undertaken at Mgahinga daily.

Nature walks

The half day nature trails concentrated in the forest zone run out of Ntebeko. Of particular interest to birders is the Sabyinyo Gorge Trail that ascends around Ntebeko into a stand of bamboo forest before following a small stream through a lushly forested gorge.

The bamboo forest is a good place to see golden monkeys as well as francolin, Kivu ground thrush, and sun birds.

The evergreen forest harbors local birds, such as the Ruwenzori turaco, western green tinker bird, olive woodpecker, African hill babbler, Archer’s ground robin,Ruwenzori batis, and montane sooty boubou, several of which are Albertine Rift endemics.

Another day trail leads to Rugezi swamp, where in addition to the usual forest animals and birds, you  stand a fair chance of seeing elephants, and in the late afternoon, giant forest hogs. Another excursion leads to Garama Cave, four km from Ntebeko, which was occupied by humans during the late Iron Age and later used by the Batwa as a hiding place after raiding neighboring Bantu-speaking tribes.

The Batwa trail

The Batwa trail follows along the lower slopes of Mgahinga Volcano to Garama Cave, and involves visitors learning survival skills from their Batwa, including lighting a fire, camping, target practice with a bow and arrow, and food gathering.

The trail culminates with a memorable performance of Batwa songs in the Batwa’s council chamber in Garama Cave, a dramatic setting with powerful acoustics. The day concludes with learning more about the plight of the Batwa people.